Will Wd-40 Clean Cylender Rings On A Revolver

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I have a very dumb question. BTW, I tried to search, merely I don't think I did it correctly.
I have but realized that the Taurus transmission does non tell yous how to lube the revolver.

I make clean the cylinder, and the bore. Then dry them with clean patch. The usual stuff. However, I have no idea on the best style to lube it.

Where do I need to lube information technology? I utilize Superlube (Teflon based light penetrating spray type.) I usually spray a footling at all external moving parts.

Practice I demand to oil the cylinder lock, and etc?

Do I need to routinely take the side plate out and lube the internal (the manual said that yous don't need to do that.)

Cheers,

-Pat
RyanM Member

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Dunno nigh Taurus, but Ruger recommends just dripping a small amount of oil into the various holes in the frame that parts stick out of, for their revolvers. Ruger'due south lockwork is fairly unique, though, so that may not apply to a Taurus or Smith.
I really doubt you'd need to lubricate the cylinder lock or other relatively low-stress parts. The only thing a revolver actually needs oil for is to prevent rust if information technology's blued. Oiling the parts of the trigger mechanism will make the trigger pull smoother and reduce article of clothing a little, simply lack of lubrication won't make the gun unreliable, unlike nigh automatics.
Revolvers are easy. For decades I just put some drops of oil (Rem Oil) on a clean patch and run it thru the barrel several times. Don't oil the cylinders. Keep them clean and dry then the cases drop out quick and clean. If you pull the hammer back, you lot could identify a single drop of oil down into the frame. That will keep the small internal mechanisms lubed.
agree , they have it covered
There is one place I was taught to lube on a revolver not mentioned in the other posts (pitiful I don't know the name of the part).
With the cylinder swung out on the inside frame is a little semicircular thingy just above the trigger that locks the cylinder in place. I was taught to put a drop of oil on this thing. The oil finds its way downwardly into the trigger and lubes the trigger mechanism. I was taught to practise this last when cleaning and then shut the cylinder and so dry burn the revolver x or so times to become the trigger lubed upwards.
General cleaning & lubing advice:
Try this:

I've used this procedure on all civilian guns for over xxx years, except that I don't remember I had Breakfree and Rem Oil for the whole fourth dimension:
one. Make clean unabridged gun with Hoppe's #nine, i of the smells of freedom, the other being burnt JP 4, or Breakfree aerosol (carburetor cleaner works almost as expert), depending on how muddy the gun is. Use a bronze bristle brush in the barrels and chambers to break up the grime, so cotton patches on a slotted tip until clean. Utilise a jag for a couple of swipes to get that last bit of grime out of the barrel. Use an erstwhile bristle brush to clean the bolt/breech face on rifles and autos and the cylinder confront on revolvers. Scrub around the forcing cone with the bristle castor if shooting atomic number 82 bullets out of a revolver.
2. Saturate with WD 40 (no, I've never had a problem) or Rem Oil, whichever comes to hand first.
3. Wipe off thoroughly with cotton fiber rag and Q tips and slotted tip/jag with cotton patches. Become chambers bone dry (oil tin kill primers).
4. Baste tiny drops of Hoppe's gun oil or similar on points of wear.
5. For autos, put a little dab of a good grease like Rig (or the one-time black Outers/Garcia stuff) on the slide rails and whatsoever bright spots. Ditto on friction and wear points in a burglarize. Speaking of rifles, if a gas powered machine, clean the gas ports and tubes with a pipe cleaner. On Thou 16s and similar, make sure the primal means on the bolt rings are out of line.
6. Utilise very thin glaze of Hoppe's gun oil in butt using a wool or cotton fiber mop.
7. Thoroughly wipe off any backlog.
8. Before a range session, run a clean patch through the butt.
For magazines and moon clips, I use simply Hoppe'due south #ix and dry thoroughly. Absolutely no oil, it can kill primers.
In the military we used milspec bore cleaner and LSA. Worked nifty. If you're on a upkeep get some of these at a surplus outlet and yous'll be OK. Lots of guys have used thin motor oil or manual fluid for gun oil with good results too.
worth reading
Thank you to OH25shooter; the advise not to lube the cylinders is commonsense, but I must accept missed out when it was given to people, considering I have been lubricating mine, and of course, wandering why the rounds were non just dropping out.

"You learn something new every solar day."
Tecnical Info From Cylinder & Slide Shop
Proper Lubrication of Your Machine Pistol and Revolver or How non to accept Jams with your Auto And Keep Your Revolver from Squeaking.

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/cleaning.shtml
If you have a Dan Wesson, put a small drib of gun grease in the hole earlier you lot screw in the barrel nut. The 'smith at the DW found in New York told me to do that.